Wave modelling in a complex estuary: Study in preparation of field measurement campaign Eems-Dollard estuary

Abstract

This paper considers the Eems-Dollard estuary in the north of the Netherlands, which is part of the shallow shelf sea the Wadden Sea. This estuary is a highly complex area with tidal flats and deep channels and is characterised by an offshore directed wind, posing a challenge to wave prediction models. As little measurements are available, a measurement campaign is set up to provide field data for verifying and improving these wave models. The paper presents the locations that are most suited for wave measurements in the estuary, insight in the performance of the phase-averaged numerical wave model SWAN, and insight in the processes that play a role in the area around the corner of the Eemshaven. Furthermore, it presents insight into the reliability and applicability of SWAN in this highly complex area. An analysis of propagation effects is performed, as well as a comparison between the SWAN version as used for the Dutch dike safety assessment and the newest version, used for development, which includes the state of the art parameterisations of the physics. Furthermore, modelling is done for a schematised version of the area around the corner of the Eemshaven, considering several different model settings. Large differences occur in the results between the two SWAN versions. These differences are studied in more detail, and the causes of these differences are identified.