Sand waves are found on shallow, sandy seabeds throughout the world and their dynamics may pose an imminent threat to offshore construction. Therefore, there is a pressing need to understand bed level dynamics in sand wave areas. These bed level dynamics lead to variations in sand wave shape and migration rate over time. However, these variations cannot be explained with the present-day process-based sand wave models, which all include a purely periodic tidal forcing. To explain these fluctuations a more intricate description of the hydrodynamics is necessary. The aim of this study is to explore the importance of time-varying, non-tidal currents for sand wave dynamics in the North Sea. We adopted the three-dimensional Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and were able to reconstruct time-varying, non-tidal currents on top of the periodic tidal forcing, while significantly reducing computation times. The simulated currents and water levels showed a good agreement with in-situ measurements. Compared to the situation with only tidal forcing, the simulated sedimentation and erosion rates were amplified up to 15 times due to time-varying, non-tidal currents. Additionally, periods of net erosion were found at locations in the sand wave transect where tidally forced models only showed net-sedimentation. It is therefore important to consider time-varying, non-tidal currents when predicting future sand wave dynamics in the field.

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Transdisciplinary research requires improved knowledge exchange between science and practice. Such improvements include diversifying and scaling up knowledge accessing and sharing through online platforms. We conducted twenty interviews informed by behavioral science methods to clarify the aim, components, and participants' perspectives on the usefulness of the proposed components for an envisioned platform. Participants were members of a Dutch community of practice for river studies and a research programme into integrated and collaborative management. The proposed concept included storylines, data repositories, user profiles, interactive visualisations, and collaborative sessions. Interview results include drivers and barriers from prospective users that we translated into requirements to increase the potential adoption and effective use of online platforms with similar components. From the experiences with implementing these requirements, we provide recommendations for enabling primary drivers: (i) Combining online and offline interactions to provide various options for knowledge exchange between disciplines and organisations. (ii) Sharing the content and application of the research with a non-scientific audience. (iii) Reusing existing online platforms as much as possible without restricting any to improve the reuse of research methods and results. We further provide recommendations to overcome the main barriers: (i) Partnering with various communities to extend knowledge exchange. (ii) Following a participatory approach to improve the design and content while considering the time and resources that such a process entails. (iii) Providing flexible options to contribute and tailor overviews of available knowledge in different ways according to prospective users' roles in practice. (iv) Purposefully facilitating online interactions according to the transdisciplinary process-intended attributes.@en

The present work presents physical laboratory measurements of surface elevation and pore water pressures in a fine sand bed under bichromatic waves in a large-scale laboratory experiment. This was done at three cross-shore locations in the swash zone, with pressures being measured at different depths in the bed. The measurements show that the pore pressure signal decays and shifts with increased depth. These measurements are used to validate a practical model, based on the theory of Yamamoto et al. (1978, https://doi.org/10.1017/S0022112078003006) and Guest and Hay (2017, https://doi.org/10.1002/2016JC012257). The model corresponds well with the measurements (nRMSE < 0.2 and R² > 0.95 for most probes) and shows that a frequency-based model can reproduce the pressures in the bed, despite the bed being exposed during dry periods. Furthermore, the model provides the opportunity to calculate pressure gradients, both throughout the bed and at the bed surface. These modeled pressure gradients at the bed surface show that the vertical pressure gradient can have an important impact on the Shields parameter, thereby influencing sediment transport.

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Reconstructions of the most severe historic flood events contribute to improved quantification of design discharges corresponding to large return periods. Reducing the uncertainty of design discharges has a great significance in constructing proper flood defences to protect the hinterland from future flooding. However, reconstructions of the peak discharges of such historic flood events are generally associated with large uncertainties, which arise from the accuracy of the historic topography, hydraulic roughness of the river channels and floodplains, and the historic hydrograph shape. This study sets up a one dimensional-two dimensional (1D-2D) coupled hydraulic model, stretching from the upstream of Bonn at Remagen to downstream of Düsseldorf, Germany, with the length of 113 km to reconstruct the maximum discharge of the 1374 flood event (Qmax,1374), which is considered to be the largest flood of the last millennium in the Lower Rhine catchment. An uncertainty analysis was performed by adopting different river bed levels and roughness values in order to estimate the influence of these uncertainties on the reconstructed peak discharge. The upstream discharge wave was varied corresponding to a wide range of peak discharges from 12,000 to 24,000 m3/s. The resulting Qmax,1374 was determined of between 14,400 and 18,500 m3/s, were then used in a flood frequency analysis to determine the design discharges corresponding to different return periods. Compared to the design discharge computed with previous estimations of the 1374 peak discharge, we found a significant reduction of 2,000 m3/s in the design discharge corresponding to a 100,000 year return period, which is the maximum safety standard adopted in the Dutch water policy for some downstream dike sections.@en

Buildings affect aeolian sediment transport and bedform development in sandy environments. Cellular automaton (CA) models have, however, only been used to simulate natural bedform dynamics. This study extends a well-known aeolian CA model to include sediment dynamics around buildings, and uses this model to explore the interaction of building-induced deposition and erosion with natural bedform dynamics. New CA rules are introduced to represent acceleration, deceleration and sideward transport of sediment around obstacles. The simulated deposition and erosion patterns show good agreement with field experiments. The model reproduces the shape and location of the morphological pattern around a single building, and effects of building spacing on this pattern for building groups. Model results further demonstrate that building-induced effects interact with local bedform dynamics and can alter the shape, growth and migration of sand dunes.

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Salt marshes can contribute to coastal protection, but the magnitude of the protection depends on the width of the marsh. The cross-shore width of the marsh is to a large extent determined by the delicate balance between seaward expansion and landward retreat. The influence of the magnitude of daily occurring mild weather conditions and sediment availability on the variability of salt marsh width has not been systematically assessed. This paper investigates how the magnitude of homogeneous hydrodynamic forcing, combined with sediment availability, affects the biophysical development, and more specifically retreat and expansion of salt marshes. The dynamic extent of the salt marsh is assessed by modeling online-coupled hydrodynamics, morphodynamics and vegetation growth using the numerical Delft3D-Flexible Mesh model, and a vegetation growth module. Simulated patterns around the salt marsh edge resembled field observations, as well as the simulated temporal variability of the lateral position of the salt marsh edge. In the model, the salt marsh extended seaward at low wave forcing (0.00 m; 0.05 m), and retreated landward at higher wave forcing (0.10 m; 0.15 m). With increasing physical stress, the salt marsh edge was found at lower elevations, indicating an unhealthy system with a retreating marsh edge due to vegetation mortality, whereas decreasing physical stresses result in a higher salt marsh edge, enabling expansion. This balance suggests the importance of response time of vegetation to physical stress. Yet, the salt marsh forced with higher waves was able to switch from a retreating extent retrogradational to an expansional behavior as sediment supply increased.

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We present a fully coupled 2DV morphodynamic model, implemented in OpenFOAM^® that is capable of simulating swash-zone morphodynamics of sandy beaches. The hydrodynamics are described by the Reynolds-averaged Navier–Stokes (RANS) equations with a (Formula presented.) turbulence model and the Volume of Fluid (VoF) approach for discriminating between air and water. Sediment transport is described in terms of bedload and suspended load transport. We show that the default divergence scheme in OpenFOAM can become numerically unstable and lead to negative sediment concentrations, and propose a solution to avoid this problem. The model performance is assessed in terms of surface elevation, flow velocities, runup, suspended sediment concentrations, bed profile evolution and sediment transport volumes by comparing with measurements of field-scale (wave height of 0.6 m) solitary waves. The model shows reasonable agreement in terms of hydrodynamics and predicts the correct sediment transport volumes, although the deposition is predicted more onshore compared to the measurements. This is partially attributed to an overprediction of the runup. The model shows that the suspended sediment concentration displays a strong vertical dependence. These results show the potential of depth-resolving models in providing more insight into morphodynamic processes in the swash zone, particularly with respect to vertical structures in the flow and suspended sediment transport.

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The long-term physical existence of sandy shores critically depends on a balanced sediment budget. From the principles of Building with Nature it follows that a sustainable protection of sandy shores should employ some form of shore nourishment. In the spatial design process of urbanized sandy shores, where multiple functions must be integrated, the knowledge and the prediction of sediment dynamics and beach-dune morphology thus play an essential role. This expertise typically resides with coastal scientists who have condensed their knowledge in various types of morphological models that serve different purposes and rely on different assumptions, thus have their specific strengths and limitations. This paper identifies morphological information needs for the integrated spatial design of urbanized sandy shores using BwN principles, outlines capabilities of different types of morphological models to support this and identifies current gaps between the two. A clear mismatch arises from the absence of buildings and accompanying human activities in current numerical models simulating morphological developments in beach-dune environments.@en

In sandy environments, like the beach-dune system, buildings not only affect the airflow, but also the aeolian sediment transport in their surroundings. In this study, we determine how the horizontal size of sediment deposition patterns around buildings depends on the building's dimensions. Four one-day experiments were conducted at the beach using box-shaped scale models. We tested 32 building geometries, where scale model height, width and length ranged between 0.3 and 2.0 m. The deposition patterns were substantial in size: the total length and width of the deposition area were up to an order of magnitude larger than the horizontal building dimensions. It was found that the size of upwind and downwind deposition patterns depended more on the building width perpendicular to the wind direction (w), than on the building height (h). Building length had little influence. Especially the combined effect of w and h correlated well with horizontal deposition size. This is expressed in a new scaling length B for deposition around buildings, with B=w^2/3·h^1/3. As a first validation, the spatial dimensions of the initial deposition patterns observed around a scale model of 2.5 × 12 × 2.5 m, placed at the beach for five weeks, showed good agreement with those predicted based on B.

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In this study we tested to what extent grain count data from a laser particle counter, when enriched with granulometric data, can lead to accurate measurements of aeolian sediment fluxes in the field. Field experiments were conducted at Koksijde beach (Belgium) with a vertical array of five Wenglor fork sensors and co-located vertically stacked mesh sand traps. Sand collected in the traps was used to both obtain the reference values for sediment flux as well as to obtain granulometric data at the five Wenglor sensor elevations. Grain counts were transformed to sediment fluxes by combining the granulometric data with the grain size dependent, effective detection width concept. It was found that the limitation of the Wenglor sensor to have a minimum detectable grain size, well within the diameter range of sand grains in transport, could easily be corrected for through a linear relation of Wenglor detectable sediment flux with total sediment flux. However, we found that the Wenglor derived fluxes deviated from the sand trap derived fluxes in an inconsistent manner, both in the vertical and over time, which made us conclude that there is no uniform calibration possible to match the Wenglor data with the trap data. This suggests that further studies using optical aeolian transport sensors should focus on analysing the raw photoelectric signal rather than on internally processed count data.

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Foreshores consisting of both bare tidal flats and vegetated salt marshes are found worldwide and they are well studied for their wave attenuating capacity. However, most studies only focus on the small scale: just some isolated locations in space and only up to several years in time. In order to stimulate the implementation of foreshores serving as reliable coastal defense on a large scale, we need to quantify the decadal wave attenuating capacity of the foreshore on the scale of an estuary. To study this, a unique bathymetrical dataset is analyzed, covering the geometry of the Westerschelde estuary (The Netherlands) over a time-span of 65 years. From this dataset, six study sites were extracted (both sheltered sites and exposed sites to the prevailing wind direction) and divided into transects. This resulted in 36 transects covering the entire foreshore (composed of the bare tidal flat and the vegetated salt marsh). The wave attenuation of all transects under daily conditions (with and without vegetation) and design conditions (i.e. events statistically occurring once every 10,000 years) was modelled. Overall, the spatial variability of the geometry of a single foreshore was observed to be much larger than the temporal variability. Temporal changes in salt marsh width did not follow the variability of the entire foreshore. Both under daily and design conditions, vegetation contributes to decreasing wave energy and decreases the variability of incoming wave energy, thereby decreasing the wave load on the dike. The southern foreshores, sheltered from the prevailing wind direction, were more efficient in wave attenuation than the exposed northern foreshores. A linear relation between marsh width and wave attenuation over a period of 65 years was observed at all marshes. The present study provides insights needed to calculate the length of a salt marsh to obtain a desired minimum wave attenuating capacity.

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The composition of benthic species communities in the nearshore zone is closely related to the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic conditions. Sustainable management of the coastal ecosystem requires knowledge about the natural dynamics as well as human-induced changes on the ecosystem. To improve our knowledge of the benthic species distribution along a dissipative sandy shore with multiple breaker bars, an extensive dataset was collected in the nearshore zone of the barrier islands Ameland and Schiermonnikoog in the Dutch North Sea. From 2010 to 2014, every year, approximately 180 grab samples along 18 cross-shore transects were collected and analyzed for sediment characteristics and macrobenthic species composition. Mixed-effect-models and partial redundancy analysis were used to analyze the importance of morphological features (i.e., slopes, bar crests, and troughs) as an explanatory variable for the benthic species distribution. The results indicate that the morphological features in themselves explain three times more variation than the environmental parameters used. This demonstrates the importance of morphological features as a factor in explaining the distribution of benthic species communities in the nearshore. Detailed information on morphological features is easy to obtain from bathymetry maps or visual inspection. Incorporating morphological features in species distribution models will therefore help to improve sustainable management of our valuable sandy coastal systems.

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Observations of barrier coasts around the world suggest that some systems do not conform to the O'Brien-Jarret law. Here we explain this by investigating how resonance and bottom friction affect the response of tidal inlets to variations in basin geometry. Therefore, we develop a morphodynamic barrier coast model that is based on the stability concept of Escoffier for the morphological evolution of the inlets, coupled with an idealized hydrodynamic model that describes the water motion in the outer sea, inlets, and arbitrarily shaped back-barrier basin. We find that the total tidal prism through all inlets is predominantly determined by the (cross-shore) width of the basin and identify three regimes for this. First, a linear regime for narrow basins (i.e., basin width (Formula presented.) tidal wavelength) where a larger basin leads to a linear increase in total tidal prism. Second, a resonant regime for basins with a width around the resonant condition in which the total tidal prism reaches a peak. This resonance condition is a quarter tidal wavelength for basins without friction, which shifts to narrower basins as friction becomes stronger, down to 0.15 tidal wavelength. Third, a dissipative regime for wide basins (i.e., the cross-shore basin dimension or basin width (Formula presented.) resonant condition) with sufficiently strong bottom friction in which the total tidal prism does not change for wider basins, because the tidal wave completely dissipates in the basin.

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Understanding the abiotic factors governing salt marsh dynamics is crucial to incorporate such ecosystems in holistic coastal risk management (Bouma et al, 2014). Process-based modelling of these ecosystems can help to gain insight into their response to changing environmental conditions. Therefore, a new process-based approach was applied to model establishment and survival of salt marsh vegetation, bridging the gap between geophysical and ecological models. A salt marsh ecosystem representative for the Western Scheldt Estuary, the Netherlands, which is characterized by semi-diurnal tides, locally generated waves and transport of fine sediments, was simulated starting from a bare mudflat. Salt marsh development is simulated in a Python script based on two concepts: Windows of Opportunity, accounting for seedling establishment (Poppema et al, 2019), and Population Dynamics, describing the growth and decay of established salt marshes (Temmerman et al, 2007). This external script is coupled to a morphodynamic Delft3D Flexible Mesh model through Basic Model Interface (BMI). The model results show that the establishment of pioneer vegetation on bare tidal flats governs the of tidal channels. The rate of seedling establishment affects the geometry of tidal channels, leading to narrow and deep channels aligned with the direction of tidal flow for fast colonizers (e.g. Salicornia europaea; glasswort) and wider, meandering channels for slow colonizers (e.g. Spartina anglica; cordgrass). Moreover, the response of the salt marsh-tidal flat system to changing abiotic conditions (e.g. waves, sediment influx) is assessed, showing that although fast colonizing salt marsh species are less resistant to physical forcing, they can adjust more rapidly to changes in environmental conditions. Concluding, a new process-based approach for biogeomorphological modelling has helped to improve the understanding of salt marsh development under changing environmental conditions, bringing incorporation of these ecosystems into coastal management a step further.@en

Side channels are commonly constructed to reduce the flood risk or to increase the ecological value of a river. Such artificial side channels generally aggrade. We categorize the development of side channels based on the sediment that is deposited in these channels. Based on this categorization, we determine the main mechanisms that affect their development, and we propose an initial framework on how to predict the long-term development of side channels. The results can be used to design, operate, and maintain side channel systems.@en

To guarantee port accessibility, navigation approach channels need to be well maintained. Annual dredging efforts to maintain navigable channels may well exceed tens of millions m³ of sediment per year, which results in high recurrent costs for port operators. Quantification of expected siltation rates with process-based numerical models helps to effectively design and optimise approach channels. The setup of such models requires several assumptions and parameter settings which introduce uncertainty in model output. However, traditional Monte Carlo methods to quantify that uncertainty in model output are often too resource-intensive with current standard computer resources to be feasibly applied in coastal engineering projects such as approach channel design. Here, we use an alternative multifidelity approach to estimate the probability density function of channel siltation, at lower computational costs compared to direct Monte Carlo simulation. The idea behind this method is to map the output uncertainty of a faster, but inaccurate model to a preferred high-detailed model. The key requirement is that the faster, low-fidelity model and the detailed high-fidelity model are correlated, and that his correlation can be modelled with a probabilistic function. Since linearity of the correlation is not a requirement, the coarse-grid model can be very inaccurate but still serve as an adequate predictor of the high-fidelity model. In this study we did observe a highly nonlinear correlation, which in our case is explained by underestimation of channel siltation near the surf zone by the coarse model. In the presented multifidelity approach we adopted a combination of quasi-random Monte Carlo simulation and a non-parametric Gaussian process transfer function to estimate the uncertainty of total siltation and spatial patterns of siltation in a port approach channel. We argue that the multifidelity approach is conceptually straightforward and found that it can be used to significantly decrease the costs of probabilistic analysis; in our case we found a 85% decrease compared to direct Monte Carlo simulation. An additional advantage is that the approach allows for a trade-off between precision and efficiency by varying the number of high-fidelity model runs. Therefore, we conclude that the multifidelity framework is a potential powerful alternative for cases in which direct Monte Carlo simulation is infeasible or undesirable.

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Side channel construction is a common intervention to increase both flood safety and the ecological value of the river. Three side channels of Gameren in the river Waal (The Netherlands) show amounts of large aggradation. We use bed level measurements and grain size samples to characterize the development of the side channels. We relate the bed level changes and the deposited sediment in the side channels to the results of hydrodynamic computations. Two of the three side channels filled mainly with suspended bed-material load. In one of these channels, the bed level increased enough that vegetation has grown and fine suspended load has settled. In the third side channel, the bed shear stresses are much smaller and, in addition to the suspended bed-material load, fine sediment settles. Based on the side channel system at Gameren, we identify two types of side channels: one type fills predominantly with suspended bed-material load from the main channel and a second type fills predominantly with fine suspended load. This gives an indication of the main mechanisms that lead to the aggradation in artificial side channel systems.

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Living near estuaries comes with flood risks from riverine and coastal sources, nevertheless the population density is high and still growing. The population and assets are generally protected by conventional coastal measures, which are challenged by increased storm intensity and sea level rise (SLR). However, those solutions are static and do not adapt to a changing climate. Foreshores, consisting of a tidal flat and salt marsh can serve as add-on to conventional coastal protection. Such a hybrid solution is more sustainable, in that the salt marsh part can cope, to a certain extent, with SLR. Previous studies proved the wave attenuating capacity of foreshores. However, all studies focused on the relative small scale only; i.e. some isolated foreshores in space and at most up to several years in time. The key question addressed in this study is: to what extent can foreshores safely act as additional coastal protection over a decadal time scale? A unique bathymetrical dataset was analyzed, covering the whole of the Westerschelde estuary (The Netherlands) over a period of 65 years. A total of 36 transects (aligned with the dominant wind direction) were constructed over a selection of six foreshores. The wave attenuating capacity of the foreshores was assessed under daily conditions both with and without vegetation and under extreme conditions (i.e. events statistically occurring once every 10.000 years), using the numerical model SWAN (Simulating WAves Nearshore). By assessing the wave attenuating capacity over the evolving bathymetry over a period of 65 years, it was found that foreshores always contribute to wave attenuation. Under extreme conditions, foreshores sheltered from the prevailing wind direction were more efficient in wave attenuation (i.e. decrease of wave height per meter foreshore), than foreshores located at the exposed shores. Moreover, at all foreshores, the bare tidal flat caused a baseline wave attenuation, while a linear relation was observed between the width of the salt marsh and the wave attenuation; The longer the vegetated marsh, the larger the wave attenuation. Nevertheless, the relation was different per foreshore. The relation found, provides the knowledge needed to calculate the minimum width of the salt marsh to provide the desired wave attenuation under extreme conditions.@en

We present an idealized network model for storm surges in the Wadden Sea, specifically including a time-dependent wind forcing (wind speed and direction). This extends the classical work by H.A. Lorentz who only considered the equilibrium response to a steady wind forcing. The solutions obtained in the frequency domain for the linearized shallow-water equations in a channel are combined in an algebraic system for the network. The velocity scale that is used for the linearized friction coefficient is determined iteratively. The hindcast of the storm surge of 5 December 2013 produces credible time-varying results. The effects of storm and basin parameters on the peak surge elevation are the subject of a sensitivity analysis. The formulation in the frequency domain reveals which modes in the external forcing lead to the largest surge response at coastal stations. There appears to be a minimum storm duration, of about 3–4 h, that is required for a surge to attain its maximum elevation. The influence of the water levels at the North Sea inlets on the Wadden Sea surges decreases towards the shore. In contrast, the wind shearing generates its largest response near the shore, where the fetch length is at its maximum@en