SWAN SurfBeat-1D

Abstract

The Simulating WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model has been extended with an infragravity module to predict the Wave-Group-Forced (WGF) infragravity response to a frequency-directional sea-swell spectrum at a mildly sloping alongshore uniform beach. To that end the SWAN model has been extended with an WGF-infragravity source term denoted S_sb where the subscript denotes surfbeat. The corresponding WGF infragravity energy model has been verified with a set of benchmark tests using the infragravity amplitude model of Reniers et al. (2002). Next the implementation of the energy balance in SWAN has been validated with both prototype-scale laboratory experiments and field observations, showing a good comparison with observations not affected by the nodal structure of the (partially) standing infragravity waves. This suggests that the model is capable of providing improved infragravity boundary conditions in relatively shallow water compared to the typical assumption of equilibrium forcing conditions using for instance Hasselmann's equilibrium theory (Hasselmann, 1962). These infragravity boundary conditions can subsequently can be used by other more sophisticated models to compute runup, overtopping and dune erosion.